You don’t see many wines from Liguria (the gorgeous stretch of coastline that extends from Tuscany to the French border) in the U.S. This fresh white, made from the indigenous Pigato grape, offers clean aromas of wild sage and freshly cut grass and isn’t hard on the wallet.——M.L.(12/31/2009)—— 84

I rarely come across white wines from Liguria in the United States, but this top-notch effort, a fine value, is imported by Vias Imports. It will drink smashingly well with an assortment of seafood/shellfish dishes. Made from the Pigato grape, the 1999 Pigato exhibits excellent fruit, medium body, fine ripeness, and a pleasant, fruit-driven personality. It displays a distinctive Mediterranean trait in its salty sea breeze, herb-tinged character. This white is made and aged in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks. Drink it over the next 12-18 months. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200