Cantine Colosi’s interpretation of Passito di Pantelleria is definitely distinct and unique. Rather than mature apricot and honey notes, the golden-colored wine focuses on pungent aromas of roasted nut, root beer and powdery menthol candy. It comes together well, but in a very intense and powerful way that might not appeal to everyone. It has a chewy, viscous almost tannic feel in the mouth.——M.L.(2/1/2008)—— 87