The 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino Gold is heavily characterized by dried tobacco, cigar box, Indian spice, prune and dark plum. The lack of fruit suggests the wine could fade quickly, so don’t wait too long to drink it. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Importer: Vias Import; www.viaswine.com

The 2006 Sagrantino di Montefalco Gold is a selection taken from two of the estate's most important vineyards that spends 12 months in French oak barrels. It is another big wine imbued with dark red fruit, smoke, licorice and spices. Juniper berries and leather follow, adding greater nuance and depth. This is an especially dark, sumptuous Sagrantino with tons of depth and harmony. Both bottles I tasted were superb. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Colpetrone makes some of the most concentrated Sagrantinos readers will come across. The Rosso and Passito are generally less consistently outstanding, which I found to be the case this year. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2005 Sagrantino di Montefalco Gold is the richest and boldest Sagrantino in the estate’s line-up. Here the French oak adds a measure of richness and volume to the fruit, while remaining otherwise unobtrusive. In 2005 the Gold is remarkable for its seamless, dark fruit, exceptional length and superb overall balance. Today the wine remains quite primary, with little in the way of developed aromas and flavors. Another two to three years in bottle should do the trick. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This is a superb set of new wines from Colpetrone and oenologist Lorenzo Landi. The wines are made in a bold, forward style with generous fruit and great textural richness. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco Gold is a new wine made from the estate’s oldest vines in the Santa Maria del Fico and San Marco vineyards. The wine saw 12 months in French oak barrels followed by 24 months in bottle. This is an awesome, vibrant Sagrantino endowed with tons of richness in its fruit that gives the wine superb roundness to stand up to the tannins. Violets, graphite, cassis and sweet spices add further complexity to this grand, sumptuous Sagrantino. The finish is long, subtle and supremely elegant, guaranteeing that readers won’t easily forget this very fine offering. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. Colpetrone is part of the Saiagricola group of wineries that includes La Poderina in Montalcino and Fattoria del Cerro in Montepulciano, both leading properties in their respective regions. The wines of Colpetrone are equally outstanding. Oenologist Lorenzo Landi interprets Sagrantino in a rich, full-bodied style. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200