The 2006 Lagrein Sigis Mundus is a dark, powerful wine imbued with blackberries, cassis, grilled herbs and scorched earth. This shows excellent up-front juiciness but then dries out a bit on the mid-palate as some of the wilder Lagrein notes take on a more prominent role. With a little more persistence and harmony it might very well merit a higher score. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2015. Alto Adige is a region full of high-quality cooperatives, but few are as consistent as Colterenzio-Schreckbichl. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham, Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200

The 2004 Lagrein Sigis Mundus flows from the glass with generous dark fruit, grilled herbs, licorice and new leather. The wine shows plenty of varietal character, along with some of the wilder aromas and flavors that are typical of Lagrein. Clean, mineral notes frame the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Colterenzio makes a wide range of wines. This year I found the whites more interesting than the reds. The estate’s entry-level wines were reviewed in Issue 184. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham, Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200

The 2003 Lagrein Sigis Mundus Cornell is a big powerful Lagrein packed with jammy blueberries, blackberries, oak, earthiness and wild herbs. Made in a brooding style, it possesses outstanding length and plenty of style, with notable depth and intensity. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2013. The Colterenzio line-up was among the most consistently impressive I tasted this year. The value-priced wines are reviewed in Issue 178. Importers: Empire Merchants, LLC, New York, NY; tel. (800) 338-3880 ; Giuliana Imports, Boulder, CO; tel. (303) 449-5477; Grappoli Imports, Ltd, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 519-2155; Grassroots Wine Wholesalers, LLC; Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 250-9060; Haw River Wine Man, Inc., Haw River, NC; wineworm@earthlink.net; Horizon Wines, Inc.; Houston, TX; tel. (713) 413-9463; Ideal Wine and Spirit Company Inc., Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; International Wines, Inc.; Birmingham,Al; tel. (205) 945-7101; Premiere Beverage, South Florida, FL; tel. (954) 266-2227; Villa Italia Imports, South San Francisco, CA; tel. (650) 873-6060; Vintage Wines, Ltd, Wood Dale, IL; tel. (773) 254-8200