The unoaked Chardonnay phenomenon continues to gain traction in the Pacific Northwest. Tank ferl ightly scented with sweet herb and yeast, this high acid, bone dry Chardonnay seems destined for a stop in Oyster-ville, or at least somewhere over the shellfish rainbow. The salty flavors of mollusks should marry pleasantly with the crisp, cracker-flavored saltiness of the wine. ——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 84