At first the nose is like caramelized popcorn, a forward combination of oak and toast. The flavors are of apple, pear and citrus, and that well-blended package is carried by excellent acidity, the type you could call “bracing.” The finish goes on for quite some time, proof that this is a ripe, healthy wine that’s hitting its stride. ——M.S.(7/1/2003)—— 91