The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu wafts from the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, mandarin, clear honey and warm bread. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with broad shoulders, ripe but tangy acids and good grip on the chalky finish.

The 2015 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu is aged entirely in stainless steel. It has a rather muffled, wet wool-scented bouquet that does not quite convey the mineralité of a Chablis. The palate is balanced with veins of mango and pineapple, but it feels rather muffled on the waxy-textured finish. It is not a bad Mont de Milieu, but it does not deliver the complexity of the best wines of this vintage.

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu has a crisp, stony, quite austere bouquet. The palate is rounded on the entry but does not live up to the expectations set by the nose, and seems muddled and a little flabby on the finish. Drink now-2016. Located in the village of Fleys, Jean-Pierre Grossot looks over around 18 hectares of vines, including a tidy portfolio of premier crus. Like Nathalie Fevres’ grandfather, his own grandpere was part of the La Chablisienne cooperative before selling his wines to negoce and finally, from 1980, bottling their own wines while converting their polyculture of holdings to a monoculture of vines. Their 2012s constitute a satisfactory set of wines, marred by one of two crus that seem to have gone awry. I have tasted better wines from Grossot in the past and the quality here is more determined by the challenges of the growing season – I am sure their 2013s will be better. Importers: Carolina Wine Co., Norwood (MA), VOS Selections (NY), Vintage Imports, Denver (CO) and Adventures In Wine, Daly City (CA)