The 2004 Brut Metodo Classico is wonderfully precise in its aromas and flavors. It shows considerable focus and energy. Citrus peel, flowers and crushed rocks linger on the articulate, bright finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The NV Brut Metodo Classico (Chardonnay) is a very pretty wine from Costaripa. Classy and understated, the NV Brut impresses for its texture and hugely appealing personality above all else. A floral, fresh finish rounds things out nicely. Costaripa’s NV Brut is one of the best-kept secrets in Italian sparkling wine. Don’t tell the Champenois, but this is the sparkling wine I served at my wedding, when my graduate-school weakened bank account forced me to be especially value-conscious. The wine, served from magnums, was a huge hit. This is Lot L 02/11. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Here’s a very toasty and nutty expression of sparkling Chardonnay (with 5% Pinot Bianco) from Brescia in Northern Italy that offers background aromas of dried fruit and apricot. The wine is lively and smooth in the mouth with zesty effervescence and enduring notes of almond and hazelnut on the close. ——M.L.(6/1/2010)—— 88