There’s so much oak on this Pinot Noir, you might think you were tasting a dessert made with vanilla cream and toasted meringue, like the crust on a baked Alaska. Under all that, loads of ripe raspberries and cherries. Shows the excellent hallmarks of a fine Santa Rita Pinot Noir, but certainly is one of the oakier versions. ——S.H.(3/1/2011)—— 90