Clean compost, vanilla and plum all appear on the nose of the top-of-the-line 2015 Pinot Noir Aroha. It's medium to full-bodied, with big fruit—black cherries, plums, cola—and copious silky tannins. Not made in a huge, blockbuster style, it still makes an impression for its combination of approachability and complexity. It should make for exciting drinking over the next decade.