The cool-climate 2005 Viognier, which includes tiny dollops of Chardonnay and Semillon in the blend, is too neutral and monolithic, but it reveals pleasant notions of peaches and flowers in its low keyed personality. Drink it over the next year. Importer: Ken Onish & John Gorman, Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

Smells like fresh whipping cream and melon, and the flavors are similar, but edged in some white pepper. This is a lithe Viognier, not a fat, alcoholic one, with a bony, dusty spine that stays the fresh-and-balanced course through the finish. Imported by Southern Starz, Inc. ——D.T.(12/31/2005)—— 88