Cedar and vanilla notes join raspberries and cherries on the nose of the 2018 Saint Joseph Vin Rare. More structured than it appeared last time I tasted it, it's medium to full-bodied, with some dusty tannins nicely balanced by mouthwatering berries on the finish.

Looking much better than previous vintages, the 2017 Saint Joseph Vin Rare does show some oak influence in its aromas of baking spices and creamy, lush texture, but it retains sufficient berry fruit and crushed-stone mineralogy to impress. It's full-bodied, concentrated and complex, with a long, mouthwatering finish.

The 2016 Saint Joseph Vin Rare shows fine notes of crushed stone and peppery spice. It also has green olive and dark plum flavors, a ragged, disjointed texture and some stiff tannins (unusual for the vintage).

The 2015 Saint Joseph Vin Rare offers lots of roasted herbs, chocolate, licorice and singed leather characteristics in a slightly chewy, rustic style. The oak stands out, but it's better on the palate, and it might come together more once bottled.

Earthy and a touch funky, with loamy earth, wild herbs and tobacco leaf, the 2011 Saint Joseph Vin Rare is medium-bodied, supple and has good fruit. Drink it over the coming couple of years. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa CA; tel. (707) 603-1466