Soft and buttery, this drink-now style is as smooth as a polished stone. The fruit is fairly generic and light, but the penetrating punch of popcorn and nut oil carries it along nicely.

Forward and aromatic, this opens with a floral/vanilla component, married to a caramel apple core. The wine spent 18 months in neutral oak, softening and rounding it out. It's got some buttered nut flavors but nothing overdone, and it is absolutely drinking at its best already.

There is an interesting floral component—white blossoms—coming through in the nose, and sailing along on top of flavors of buttered nuts. A somewhat oily mouthfeel is lifted by moderate acids, and the overall length and follow-through make this one of the better vintages of this affordably priced wine.

For those who want some buttered popcorn flavors in their Chardonnay, this nails it. Thick and toasty, yet buttressed with full-on fruit flavors of melon, peach, lemon and lime, it’s forward and appealing. Not for cellaring—this one’s for gulping.——P.G.(4/1/2010)—— 90

Barrel fermented and aged on the lees for almost a year, this is a nutty, slightly oily wine that shows the influence of the barrel, but lacks the fruit density to match it. The 14% alcohol hits the palate with some heat. High-toned and a bit harsh.——P.G.(4/1/2008)—— 85