The 2009 Lacrima Christi del Vesuvio Rosso (Piedirosso, Aglianico) screams with character. A blast of tar, earthiness, game and smoke leads to ripe wild cherries and herbs. The wine gains richness and juiciness in the glass, but always remains a touch rustic. Still, with hearty fare the Lacrima Cristi will provide superb drinking. It is a fabulous value. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119