The top-scoring wine in my book from this cute villa and winery, the Casa al Vento 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Foho (made with organic Sangiovese) offers an initial layer of dark fruit and rich concentration followed by blackberry, dried cherry, spice and plum. It brings a good deal of upfront aromatic intensity, capped off by medium richness and mid-weight length. The estate recommends the local pheasant dish, fagiano al senese, for this wine, which sounds absolutely perfect.

Sangiovese with a small addition of Merlot, the 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva Foho shows dark and savory aromas of cured meat and dried fruit. Earthy notes of crushed stone and granite also appear. This is a masculine and brooding expression that shows a high degree of elegance and power (especially with the 14.5% alcohol). Licorice and barbecue smoke replace the obvious fruit.