Here's a well-priced red wine from an estate fully committed to the production of white wines. The Bisci 2018 Villa Castiglioni is all Sangiovese (aged in neutral tonneaux) built on basic freshness and bright primary fruit. There is plenty of cherry, dried currant and some earthy sensations to flesh it out. This wine once represented a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, but the French grape was removed, I am told, "to simplify things." The vineyard was planted in 2001, and 6,000 bottles were made.

The 2004 Villa Castiglione (70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a super-finessed wine with layers of delicate dark red cherries, tobacco and underbrush. Medium in body, it offers outstanding purity and definition with a gorgeous, long finish. It is a great effort from Bisci. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2019. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The Bisci brothers (which sounds like the name of a band) are best known for their superior Verdicchio-based white wines, the finest in the Marches, but their high-powered winemaker, Paolo Caciorgna, is from Tuscany and has a very sure hand with Sangiovese as well. The 2001 Villa Castiglioni, Sangiovese with a small amount of Cabernet in the blend, shows the perfumed and elegant red fruit and violets of this variety, a fine-grained texture with great purity and tensile strength, and a lingering, caressing elegance on the close. It will easily drink well for another dozen years, and is pure class, an indication that the Marches should take Sangiovese more seriously. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Villa Castiglioni is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in both barrel and stainless steel tank. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by an elegant bouquet of sweet cherries, black currants, spice box, and licorice. Medium-bodied and soft, it is best consumed over the next 2-3 years. This is a good value . A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

A blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon that is aged in both tank and barrel, the dense, concentrated, black cherry and berry-flavored 1997 Villa Castiglioni possesses fine density, no hard edges, adequate acidity, and the opulence that is so much a characteristic of the finest wines from this marvelous Italian vintage. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300