The 2008 Barbera d’Asti Bricco della Bigotta shows terrific concentration and richness in its dark fruit. This is a focused, mineral-laced Bigotta that impresses for its length and overall sense of balance. Wild cherries, flowers, tar and licorice linger on the soft finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. These are some of the most exciting wines I have tasted from Braida in a long time. In particular, the 2008 Barbere are exceptional. It’s hard to tell how much of that is attributable to the vintage itself versus winemaking, but the simple reality is that the 2008s are beautiful, elegant, refined Barbere that avoid the excessive heaviness that was common in the past.Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Here’s a super-modern and thoroughly lovable style of Barbera with intense and complex notes of milk chocolate, big black berry spice and espresso coffee. This wine stands tall among a new school of Barbera producers who have opted for a soft and extracted interpretation of this otherwise thorny and acidic grape.——M.L.(9/1/2010)—— 92