Rijckaert’s 2007 Cotes de Jura Les Sarres Chardonnay mingles scents and flavors of apple, lime, pineapple, and coconut with pungent nuttiness and a whiff of fino sherry-like flor. Opulently rich in texture, yet bright, it finishes with impressive length. This is a fascinating and delicious example of its genre, a genre which requires some adjustment on the part of a consumer accustomed to Chardonnay from almost anywhere else in the world. Feel free to cellar this for a few years. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29.

For all the bashing Chardonnay takes among wine enthusiasts, when well made it is still among the food-friendliest of wines. This lovely version from France's Jura boasts understated oak, ripe pear and apple fruit and an elegant minerality that sets it apart from the crowd. Pair it with virtually any seafood dish, or with white meats, including chicken, veal and pork. Imported by Michael Skurnik.——J.C.(8/1/2005)—— 89