The 1997 Vin Santo remains one of the bench marks in a zone which pioneered the conception of this wine as an important dessert offering. A glowing golden amber with potent aromas of caramel, hazelnuts, apricots, and figs, the wine presents a broad and rich texture and luscious sweetness, but an equally important freshness to maintain the balance. Drink: 2005-2025. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, New York, NY; tel. (212) 249-6650

Believe it or not, I do taste Vin Santos every few years, but I have never had one quite so remarkable as this 1988 from Villa Sant' Anna. The dark amber color gives way to a penetrating smoked hazelnut/earthy-scented nose with aromas of truffles, soy, and leather. Offering an immense amount of flavor, this dry, sherry-like aperitif or dessert wine (whichever you prefer) is one of the most aromatic, complex, and provocative Vin Santos I have ever tasted. Like so many great wines, quantities are minuscule. Importer: Neal Rosenthal. His selections can be purchased at his retail shop in Manhattan (tel. 212-249-6650 and fax 212-744-3354). His address is P.O. Box 658, Route 83, Shekomeko, NY 12567; telephone 800-910-1990.