Twenty per cent of the 2010 Hiriart Crianza sees the malolactic fermentation completed in new oak and then transferred into new French, American and European oak barrels for another 12 to 14 months (essentially 200% new oak). For the remaining 80%, the malo is done in stainless steel and then raised in new and used oak. Deep in color, the wood does dominate the nose, although there seems to be sufficient broody black fruit underneath. The palate is soft and fleshy on the entry, although the dark plum and black currant finish needs a little more backbone and tension. My main complaint is that the wood denudes the Crianza of typicity, i.e. it could come from anywhere. Drink now-2017. The winery, based just outside the village of Cigales, was constructed in 2008, although the family have been viticulturalists for many years. The winery has a very modern design in stark contrast to the village, though the steel and glass lies above the original undergrowth cellars that are currently being renovated. They own 28 hectares of vines between 25 and 92 years of age, supplemented by contracted growers. Eighty percent of the production is devoted to rose wine, which is where we begin. Importer: First Vine, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 370-6352; and Estelle Imports, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 516-1821

The 2009 Hiriart Crianza offers a similar aromatic profile to the 2010 but is a little creamier, reflecting the opulence of the vintage, though it is dominated by the wood at the moment. The palate is well-defined with black currant pastels, red cherry and a touch of marmalade. It is quite elegant and smooth in the mouth, with a composed, slightly short finish that is (sorry to repeat myself) overwhelmed by the wood. I worry that this may dry out before the oak has been absorbed. Drink now-2016. The winery, based just outside the village of Cigales, was constructed in 2008, although the family have been viticulturalists for many years. The winery has a very modern design in stark contrast to the village, though the steel and glass lies above the original undergrowth cellars that are currently being renovated. They own 28 hectares of vines between 25 and 92 years of age, supplemented by contracted growers. Eighty percent of the production is devoted to rose wine, which is where we begin. Importer: First Vine, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 370-6352; and Estelle Imports, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 516-1821