The 2015 Saint-Bris Corps de Garde has a wonderful, effervescent orange zest and mandarin-scented bouquet that exudes mineralité. Later there is a touch of wild heather. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that cuts through the waxy-textured, slightly resinous, pithy fruit. This is very complex and very sappy in the mouth so that you can feel the saliva flowing immediately after the wine has been swallowed. It will be fascinating to see how this will age.

The 2014 Saint-Bris Corps de Garde offers gooseberry, nettle, smoke and dandelion on a captivating bouquet. Like the Exogyra Virgula, it has wonderful delineation. The palate is clean and fresh with crisp acidity, squeezed lemon and lime, Granny Smith apples and strong limestone notes that leave the mouth tingling after the wine has departed. Yes, just like licking a stone. This is simply a fantastic Saint-Bris from its leading exponent.

The 2013 Saint-Bris Corps de Garde comes from mid-slope vines on Kimmerdigian limestone and red-brown clay soils. It has compelling Sauvignon Gris bouquet with scents of Mirabelle, orange zest and a touch of ginger. The palate is fresh and vibrant, very well balanced with light honeyed notes on the entry, segueing into very pure lime, dried apricot and mineral notes. It is beautifully defined and focused, just a fabulous expression of this lesser known enclave of Burgundy.