The Dei 2015 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Bossona is a thick and richly textured wine that shows the dark fruit and spice that characterizes this sunny vintage. Dried blackberry, plum cake, spice and leather give the wine a savory and brooding quality that would match a charred steak on the grill. There is a lot of warm-vintage Tuscan intensity in this wine that ends with loose tannins and ripe fruit. I suggest a near-term drinking window for this accessible wine.

The 2012 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Bossona shows some tertiary definition with dried fruit, prune, tar and smoke. In character, the wine is slightly brambly and wild. This is an elegantly streamlined and polished expression that offers lots of Sangiovese typicity. Wet earth and moist tobacco play an important role, aromatically speaking.

The Dei 2011 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Bossona is a little overdone for my tastes, with very ripe fruit that is boosted by lots of oak. The wine's appearance is dark, rich and syrupy with evident concentration and extraction. The bouquet oozes forth with jammy black fruit aromas backed by sweet cinnamon, clove and Spanish cedar. The overall effect is heavy and bold.

The 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva Bossona possesses dazzling inner perfume and fabulous overall balance. Sweet spices, rose petals and silky red fruit follow, adding layers of complexity and nuance. Despite its richness, the wine remains light on its feet and full of elegance. The 2007 Bossona had just been bottled at the time of my tastings; it will be interesting to see how the wine develops in the coming months. It is one of the most refined wines I have ever tasted from Dei. The 2007 Bossona will be released in 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119