Despite the notable difference in soil, volcanic in this case against the gravel of Bordeaux’s left bank, the 2001 Colle Picchioni Vigna del Vassallo resembles, both in style and sensations, nothing so much as a classy Graves. A full, fresh ruby, its black currant, mineral nose, given an extra dimension by sweet green herbs, is matched by a shapely, firm, substantial palate with much fruit, a solid structure, and elegant tannins on the close. Drink: 2005-2016. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

A brilliant effort (Riccardo Cotarella is the oenologist), this Bordeaux look-alike is made from 60% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc. It offers up aromas of toasty French oak along with smoke, chocolate, cedar, black currants, and spice. Dense, medium to full-bodied, and intense, this delicious 2000 should drink well for 8-10 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Produced from a vineyard situated ten miles from Rome, this blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, aged in French oak, boasts a complex bouquet of black currants, pain grille, licorice, spice box, and tobacco. Rich, full-bodied, and chewy, with superb concentration, great individuality, and undeniable complexity, this is a stunning effort. Drink it over the next 12-15 years. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Could this be the Cheval Blanc of the Adriatic coast? This intriguing blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and the remainder Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is a saturated purple-colored, gloriously fragrant wine with a complex nose of saddle leather, flowers, black currants, and coconuts. It boasts a rich, medium-bodied, super-intense attack, as well as a glorious mid-palate, and a finish loaded with copious quantities of sweet tannin. Notes of licorice emerge on the palate. This brilliant wine was aged for 24 months in French wood before being bottled following a light filtration. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Bravo! A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620