Despite the notable difference in soil, volcanic in this case against the gravel of Bordeaux’s left bank, the 2001 Colle Picchioni Vigna del Vassallo resembles, both in style and sensations, nothing so much as a classy Graves. A full, fresh ruby, its black currant, mineral nose, given an extra dimension by sweet green herbs, is matched by a shapely, firm, substantial palate with much fruit, a solid structure, and elegant tannins on the close. Drink: 2005-2016. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620