Barmes’ 2007 Pinot Gris Pfleck spent time in cask which, while older, has conveyed a spiciness to reinforce the natural spice of the grape variety. Saline, sweaty, animal, borderline reductive notes along with a narcissus-like musky note make for a display more intriguing than it is winsome. This finishes dry, and we’ll see whether or not that becomes “dried out.” Or perhaps it’s having an awkward moment. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

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