The Barmes 2008 Sylvaner Rosenberg Vieilles Vignes is scented with diverse green herbs that are joined by salt-tinged grapefruit on a substantial yet mouthwatering and for this grape unusually vivacious mid-palate, leading to a long, juicy, bouquet-garni finish. This fine value will prove deliciously adaptable at table over at least the next 4-5 years and quite possibly longer. (Please note that in past reports I neglected to add the name “Rosenberg” to the description of the Barmes-Buecher Sylvaner Vieilles Vignes even though it appears on the label.) As Francois Barmes was in the U.S. presenting his wines all the time that I was in Alsace last November, I tasted with his wife Genevieve and (for the first time in serious conversation with) his son Maxime, who clearly has the sharp wits and experimental spirit to harness his youthful enthusiasm. (I did not, however, ask him to play devil’s advocate in the case for biodynamics, which is by now a well-established practice at this address! For more on Barmes’ methodology, consult my report in issue 188.) Most of the 2009 Rieslings were almost shockingly low in acidity, but whether or not and if so to what degree they were thereby handicapped varied depending on the individual cuvee. Overall, Barmes’ approach to this vintage seems to have been to avoid problems from rapidly-ascending sugar and low acidity by picking relatively early, even if at the price of capturing only modestly ripe flavors. The array of 2009s I have reviewed is somewhat abbreviated, first on account of decisions the domaine made to conflate or omit the bottling of certain cuvees; secondly because a couple of Pinot Gris were still fermenting when I visited last November; and thirdly since from among a trio of whites still in tank awaiting sulfuring and bottling – testimony to the anomalously and inexplicably slow evolution of 2009s at this address – only one was in condition amenable to assessment. The 2008 collection is, thankfully, much more typically excellent.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

From vines planted in 1921, the 2000 Sylvaner Rosenberg de Wettolsheim Vieille Vigne bursts from the glass with chamomile, verbena, linden, and spice aromas. Medium-bodied and lush, this wine has excellent purity of fruit to accompany its dense character. Drink it over the next 4 years. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 275-1200; Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 751-9416; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

Barmes's 1999 Sylvaner Rosenberg Vieilles Vignes has an exciting, spicy nose. On the palate, there is a good burst of smoky, spicy pears, then it tightens to a zesty, vivacious finish. Drink this fun-filled Sylvaner over the next 2-3 years. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 275-1200; Dionysus Imports, Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 751-9416; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585