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Sage, wintergreen, distilled apricot, tangerine rind, and smoky black tea mark the nose of Barmes’ 2007 Muscat Ottonel – one of the rare Alsace Muscats so-labeled – and the bitter side of the herbs, tea, acacia, and of apricot kernel lend piquancy on the palate, offering counterpoint to a glycerin-rich, silken, ripely-fruited impression that encompasses an element of botrytis. A low level of residual sugar underscores the ripe apricot and orange without engendering more than marginal sweetness, and this finishes with real intensity of tangerine, apricot, and herbal, smoky pungency. While primary juiciness does not figure significantly into the equation here, this outstanding value will get your salivary glands working and should prove quite versatile over the next 3-5 years. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。