The 203 Gevrey Chambertin Cuvée Symphonie, from “young” 48-year-old vines, has a brisk brambly blackberry and strawberry nose with confit-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a playful, harmonious if slightly conservative finish. Fine.

The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Symphonie comes from around 20 parcels of vine. It has a light but agreeable, earthy bouquet with touches of dark plum emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, tart cherry fruit and decent structure toward the finish. Clean and fresh, this serves as a decent early-drinking Pinot. Drink now-2017. Burguet Bros. – Jean-Luc and Eric – have been managing this domaine since their father Alain retired a couple of years ago, although Burguet pere actually took a back office role in 2000. They source fruit from around 8 hectares of vines, exclusively Pinot Noir. Some of their cuvees come from contracted growers on the condition that they are granted free rein to pick upon their choosing. Others come courtesy of the family’s own vines. Thereafter, their principles are founded upon strict sorting three times: first via the eagle-eyed picker, then on the first sorting table prior to de-stemming and then berry-by-berry with six to eight women working a second table de trie. Only wild yeasts are used to start the fermentation with minimal use of sulfur. The wine is usually transferred into barrel as soon as possible after pressing. The wines see a prudent use of new oak during maturation, although they seem keen to keep it as low as possible, with only one racking before bottling by gravity and without filtration. This address is a source of respectable, commendable wines. Sure I found nothing spectacular here in 2012, but I certainly appreciated their consistency and charm. Importer: Becky Wasserman Selections (Le Serbet) and through various US importers (see www.leserbet.com for full list.)