Even more concentrated than the 2018 version, Perret's 2019 Saint Joseph les Grisieres boasts smoky, spicy aromas set against a backdrop of black cherries and black olives to create a complex, savory whole. Full-bodied and plush in feel, with a long, velvety finish and ample richness, it's nearly approachable now and should still be going strong in 2030.

Produced from 70-year-old vines planted just south of the village of Chavanay, the 2018 Saint Joseph les Grisieres delivers plentiful notes of blackberries and black olives. Full-bodied, rich and velvety in feel, it finishes long and softly tannic. Impressive.

The most impressive red I tasted chez Perret was the 2017 Saint Joseph les Grisieres, which is a dark, brooding version of Syrah that saw 30% new oak. Pepper, blackberry and espresso notes carry the wine through a rich, full-bodied palate and long, velvety finish. This year, Perret included 20% whole clusters to add freshness, and it seems to have worked.

The 2016 Saint Joseph les Grisieres comes from old vines (60+ years of age). It's a dark, brooding sort of Saint Joseph, with lots of savory black olive and roasted meat notes. Medium to full-bodied, it's richer and more concentrated than the regular bottling but still approachable on release.