The 2016 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru was hit by the frost so that half the fruit was lost early in the season. Apparently it touched the highest, not lowest, part of the vineyard. It has a gentle bouquet that unfurls in the glass, plenty of crushed strawberry and raspberry fruit, notes of incense and iris developing with a light marine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity, succulent in the mouth with great intensity on the finish. It will require several years in bottle but this would be my pick of the grand crus from the domaine. Just two barrels this year.

The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, from 0.20 hectares of 40-year-old vines that go from the bottom to the top of the incline, has an engaging red and black fruit-scented bouquet with touches of potpourri and violet. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe red fruit that belie quite a firm structure underneath (a leitmotif throughout several Bonnes-Mares '13.) This is linear and almost broody on the finish, deserving 5-6 years in bottle.

The 2012 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a powerful bouquet that has a distinct marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a structured entry. The acidity is well judged with a sinewy but very focused, more Musigny-like finish. Excellent. After scheduling and re-scheduling numerous times during my November tastings, I finally reached Domaine Arlaud Pere & Fils for the first time in late January. But good things come to those that wait and I found much to admire in Cyprien Arlaud’s 2012s. The origin of the estate dates back to a wedding in 1949 when Joseph Arlaud married Renee Amiot. Among the wedding presents were tracts of vineyard, which is always more useful than a toaster or an ornamental clock. Joseph was succeeded by Herve Arlaud in 1982 and invested in new vineyards and the estate has now been passed to his three children: Cyprien, Romain and Bertille. The domaine has eschewed herbicides since 1999 and transferred the vineyards to organic viticulture in 2004, certified three years later. Naturally (no pun intended) they started embracing biodynamics in 2009, including the use of horses in the vineyard to reduce soil compaction. The winery was constructed in 2003 in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the “other side” of the RN74 away from the village, a less picturesque part of the appellation for sure, but with much more space to work in. The fruit is de-stemmed although Cyprien does play with whole cluster fruit subject to the growing season. Natural yeasts are used during alcoholic fermentation and oak tends to be 15-20% for village crus up to 40-80% for grand crus. When I visited the winery, it was after a long day tasting, but even so my senses lit up when I sipped the first sample. Here are wines made in a very pure and natural style, each evocative of their respective terroirs. Each wine was imbued with superb freshness and delineation; occasionally evoking images of the sea, at other times flowers. Cyprien explained how they wait for the optimal moment to harvest their vines, which can differ by days between different crus within the same appellation (see note for “Les Ruchots”.) Importer: North Berkeley Wine www.northberkeleyimports.com and also Raeburn Fine Wines (UK)