The 2018 Echezeaux Grand Cru is also showing extremely well, soaring from the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, blood orange, incense, spices and peonies. On the palate it's medium to full-bodied, deep and ample, with a strikingly vibrant, dynamic core of fruit that's structured around fine, powdery tannins, concluding with a long and expansive finish. To produce such an energetic Echezeaux in such a warm vintage is quite an achievement.

The 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is also showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with scents of plums, peonies, exotic spices, orange rind and grilled squab. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's lively and complete, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and a long, rose-inflected finish.

Lachaux lost half of his crop in this vineyard to frost, but the 2016 Echezeaux Grand Cru is superb, offering up a deep bouquet of wild berries, orange rind and mossy soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and expansive, with a firm, tight-knit core, excellent concentration and a rich chassis of structuring tannin, underpinned by vibrant acids. This will need and reward time, but it's one of the finest renditions of this site to date from Charles Lachaux.

The 2015 Echezeaux Grand Cru is very pretty, opening in the glass with notes of sweet cherry, raspberry, cinnamon, rose and spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and sappy, with an ample chassis of fine-grained tannin, bright acids, good depth and length, and a solid core. Like most of Charles Lachaux's 2015s, this is shutting down, but it should be exceptional in the fullness of time. This is produced from a parcel in Rouges du Bas: one of the steeper, higher-altitude parts of Echézeaux, where the soil is thinner and the wines tend to be more tensile.