Sourced from the lieux-dits of Coudoulet and la Gardiole, the certified-organic 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilli en Fut de Chene is mainly Grenache, with Mourvèdre and Counoise in the mix. Dark, sooty notes of campfire dominate the nose, although some flickers of plummy fruit and black olives come through on the medium to full-bodied palate. It's round in the mouth but not particularly rich or textured, finishing on notes of singed wood.

Still in barrel, the 2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilli en Fut de Chene gives up plenty of black cherry, dried garrigue and spice in a relatively straightforward, narrow and tannic feel. Made from 65% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 5% Counoise that spent 18 months in small barrels and demi-muids, it lacks the charm of the traditional cuvée and is backwards and hard to read at present. Give it a few years in the cellar once released and hope for the best.

The 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilli en Fut de Chene shows little evidence of oak. A blend of two-thirds Grenache, one-third Mourvedre and a tiny dollop of Counoise, it possesses fresh, cedary notes intermixed with strawberry, kirsch and loamy soil characteristics. This attractive, medium to full-bodied, lush 2011 should drink well for a decade. (Not yet released) This estate’s 36+ acres are all located in the northern tier of Chateauneuf du Pape, in such well-known vineyard sites (or, as the French call them, lieux-dits) as Chapouin, Coudoulet and La Gardiole. For years, most of Berthet-Rayne’s wine was sold to leading negociants, and while some still is, they now produce about 2,000 cases of their traditional cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape, followed by just under 1,000 cases of an oak-aged cuvee and 200 or so cases of a luxuriously rich offering called Cadiac. The 2011s are very good. The bottled 2010s have turned out to be as good as I thought they were last year. Importers: Elite Wine Import Co., Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 339-8150; Eagle Eye Imports, Bloomfield Hills, MI; tel. 734-467-7088; Casa Bruno LLC, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429 and Blue Coast International, 60 East 42nd Street, Suite 1753, New York, New York 10165,Tel: (212) 867-0073 www.berthet-rayne.fr

The barrique-aged 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Fut de Chene reveals good integration of wood as well as abundant notes of garrigue, black currants, kirsch, licorice and lavender intermixed with a hint of vanillin. This deep ruby/purple-hued effort possesses a medium to full-bodied, concentrated mouthfeel as well as some tannins to shed. No doubt this cuvee will firm up in barrel. It should evolve for 10-15 years. (Not yet released)Although I did not have an opportunity to taste them from bottle, readers may remember that my reviews of the unbottled 2009s in issue #191 included the following ratings: 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition (87-89), 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cadiac (90-92), 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Fut de Chene (86-88), and 2009 Elixir des Papes (84-86?).Importers: Elite Wine Import Co., Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 339-8150; Eagle Eye Imports, Bloomfield Hills, MI; tel. 734-467-7088; Ted Edward Wine Ltd., New York, NY (no phone number available); and Casa Bruno LLC, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429