A light-bodied effort, the 2000 Riesling Riquewihr reveals chalk and limestone aromas. Earth, pear, mineral, and lemon flavors can be found in its concentrated core of fruit. Anticipated maturity: Now-2007. The youthful Jean-Christophe Bott, this winery's winemaker and director, believes 2000 "is not an exceptional vintage, yet is outstanding. The last extraordinary year we had was 1990. That being said, the 2000s all have beautiful richness of fruit and some have excellent acidity."Importer: European Cellars, Eric Solomon, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93

The 1999 Riesling Riquewihr exhibits intense mineral and herbal tea aromas. A Riesling for those who don't particular love this varietal, it is a silky-textured, light to medium-bodied wine with lush pear and apple flavors. Those who crave this varietal's generally linear and highly focused characteristics should shy away from this plump, straightforward wine. Drink it over the next 5 years. Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel. (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585

The 1997 Riesling Riquewihr has excellent depth to its aromatic profile. This is a light-to-medium-bodied, pure, crisp, and fresh wine filled with concentrated lemony fruits. It will require a year of cellaring to fill out and then hold through 2005. It is an excellent value. Importers: European Cellars (Eric Solomon), New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949. Also, a Peter Vezan Selection, (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42-55-42-93), various American importers, including: Barriques Wines, Chicago, IL; tel (773) 275-1200; Branded New England, Norwood, MA; tel (781) 501-1256; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (800) 266-6585.

I tasted three Rieslings from Bott-Geyl, all top-notch efforts. The 1995 Riesling Riquewihr displays a big, spicy, citrusy, floral, apple, and mineral-scented nose, outstanding ripeness, medium body, and a dry, crisp, vibrant finish. While it is the most developed of the trio, it will last for 5-8 more years. Bott-Geyl has become one of Alsace's most fashionable young wine producers. Three consistent characteristics of these wines are 1) purity and concentration, 2) multi-layered textures - the result of extended lees contact for 10-12 months, and 3) faithful interpretation of each varietal's characteristics. The wines reviewed in this segment performed exceptionally well, and, for their quality, are reasonably-priced. Importer: David Hinkle, North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910.