Bruno Clair's 2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru was showing very well, wafting from the glass with a classy bouquet of ripe cherries and dried flowers, complemented by sapid, savory nuances of soy and smoked duck. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a deceptively open-knit, succulent profile that I suspect is more a function of the wine's structural finesse than it is any lack of seriousness. This is an elegant, classically balanced Clos de Bèze that may well prove to be a sleeper of the vintage.