The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or offers up aromas of pear and other sweet orchard fruits mingled with orange oil, white flowers and smoke. Full-bodied, ample and sumptuous, it's layered and fleshy, with a fat, enveloping core of fruit, lively acids and a long, mineral finish that belies its mid-palate richness.

The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru La Gouttes d'Or demanded some coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing yellow flower, citrus fruit and lemon curd aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with lightly honeyed citrus fruit, hints of freshly shaved ginger lending a sense of tension, the acidity nicely judged with good weight and personality towards the finish. This is very fine.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or was cropped at 18 hectoliters per hectare and this year comprises of just two one-year-old barrels. It has a light, smoky, slightly earthy bouquet that does not quite reach the level of the Charmes at the moment. The palate is well balanced with orange zest on the entry. There is commendable depth here and it feels powerful, although I prefer the mineral drive of the Les Cras and the Meursault Charmes this year.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or "THJ" (the initials indicate that Thomas Jefferson is said to have tasted Meursault from Mon. Bachey that is owned by the domaine) has one of the most exotic bouquets compared to the other Meursaults at the moment, with just a hint of licorice accompanying the citrus fruit, although it will calm down by the time of bottling. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, very good weight in the mouth with a precise, quite spicy and concentrated finish that lingers long in the mouth. This will be probably be one of the latest bottles 2013s, probably in March 2014. Excellent.

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or, which Patrick described as his most "athletic" cru, demonstrates a tightly-wound bouquet with pithy fruit, nectarine and Cornice pear, grilled almond and dandelion coming through later. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, lightly spiced fruit and touches of white pepper furnishing the linear finish. Very fine, though I would like just a little more persistency. Drink 2018-2028. Importers: Vintner Select, www.vintnerselect.com, Cincinnati, OH; Milton Road Trading Corp, LLC, www.miltonroadtrading.com, Napa, CA; Scott Paul Wines, www.scottpaul.com, Portland, OR; Martine-s Wines, www.martineswines.com, Novato, CA; Import Wines, Middleton, WI, Old World Importing, Inc., www.oldworldimporting.com, Eagle, CO. Also available in the UK from Flint Wines, www.flintwines.com, Latimer Vintners, www.latimervintners.com, and Roberson Wine, www.roberson.co.uk and Anthony Sarjeant.