From tank, his 2009 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes is syrup-like in its sweetness and viscosity, but its soft, enveloping palate impression – full of quince preserves and honey – nevertheless manages to evince some sense of levity. I anticipate this being best enjoyed as a dessert wine and within the next 3-5 years. I was sligthtly disappointed with Philippe Cady’s collection of 2009s – tasted from tank – and unfortunately could not take the time to taste his finished 2008s. But while neither truly noble rot nor good balance came easily on the Coteaux du Layon in 2009, Cady’s Chenins remain on the whole outstanding values in genuinely nobly sweet wine.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

The Cady 2005 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes offers a nose of bread, brown spices, mint, white raisin, honey, and quince. A rich, creamy palate of spice-infused quince and apple jelly leads to a finish with good grip and well-balanced sweetness. Cady’s can be an excellent address at which to study terroir. In drought years, the sponge-like soil of Chaumes is generally superior and in wet ones the schiste of St. Aubin. But in neither 2004 nor 2005 did I find his Chaume as pure or persuasive as his St.-Aubin.Philippe Cady is an excellent source for Coteaux du Layon values vinified entirely in tank, and generally available in a range of vintages – indeed, some of his outstanding 2002s can still be found in both the French and U.S. markets.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

There was already ample botrytis in early October when Cady began picking his 2004 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes and pungent brown spice, faintly fungal emanations, as well as a nip of horseradish in the nose and on the palate call attention to this fact. Quince and apple jelly, lemon and herb candy mingle in a still juicy matrix. Polish and subtle creaminess help alleviate the sharper notes of botrytis. This finishes with a somewhat candied but satisfying length. Philippe Cady is an excellent source for Coteaux du Layon values vinified entirely in tank, and generally available in a range of vintages – indeed, some of his outstanding 2002s can still be found in both the French and U.S. markets.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Spices, marzipan, and smoky tangerine aromas are found in the nose of the 2003 Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin Les Varennes, a fine value. Rich, broad, and medium-bodied, its thickly textured personality offers creamed almond as well as spice flavors. A slight hint of dryness was perceptible in the finish. Drink it over the next 5-6 years.A Thomas Calder Selection, Issy-Les-Moulineaux, France; Tel./Fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29, various importers including David Schildknecht Selection, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (513) 229-3630