From tank, his 2009 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin Les Varennes is syrup-like in its sweetness and viscosity, but its soft, enveloping palate impression – full of quince preserves and honey – nevertheless manages to evince some sense of levity. I anticipate this being best enjoyed as a dessert wine and within the next 3-5 years. I was sligthtly disappointed with Philippe Cady’s collection of 2009s – tasted from tank – and unfortunately could not take the time to taste his finished 2008s. But while neither truly noble rot nor good balance came easily on the Coteaux du Layon in 2009, Cady’s Chenins remain on the whole outstanding values in genuinely nobly sweet wine.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29