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Cady’s 2007 Coteaux du Layon St.-Aubin (grown on the schistic soils typical of that commune) also features quince and brown spices, here with a fresh lime note and rich underlying malt character. Elegant, open-knit, and gently caressing in texture, this marginally more refined Cady rendition of Coteaux du Layon also displays excellent balance and will prove to have multiple uses if given a chance anytime over the next 2-3 years.Such a bargain is Loire wine that one can purchase a full bottle of delicious, satisfying nobly sweet Chenin from Philippe Cady for well less than the price ceiling set for this report.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29