Audoin's 1999 Marsannay (white), often one of Burgundy's finest values for American consumers, displays fresh white fruits, flowers, smoke, and vanilla in its aromatics. It is light-bodied, satin-textured, and lace-like, yet has good depth of fruit to its pear, apple, and spice-flavored core. Drink it over the next 4 years. Importer: Michel-Schlumberger Imports, Healdsburg, CA; tel. (707) 433-7427.

Audoin's 1998 Marsannay is one of the finest white Burgundies produced in this difficult vintage, as well as one of the rare values that can be found from this highly sought-after, and therefore expensive, wine-producing region. Rich butterscotch and spiced pear aromas lead to its medium-bodied, plump, and sexy personality. Creamed white fruits, anise, and spices can be discerned in its flavorful and expressive character, as well as throughout its long, lush, finish. Projected maturity: now-2004. Importer: Michel-Schlumberger Imports, Healdsburg, CA; tel. (707) 433-7427.

Importer: Michel-Schlumberger Imports, Healdsburg, CA; tel. (707) 433-7427.