The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of dark berries, peonies, baking chocolate and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, supple and sensual, with refined tannins, lively acids and a long, penetrating finish, it's balanced to age with grace.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru—as usual, a blend of Taillepieds and Clos des Chênes—is lovely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, raw cocoa and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and seamless, with tangy acids and a concentrated core of fruit, it's bright and elegant, built for slow evolution in the cellar.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru is a blend of Taillepieds and Clos des Chênes, and it is showing brilliantly, offering up a deep bouquet of ripe wild berries, dark chocolate, rich soil tones, spices and peonies. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a more reserved profile than the domaine's other reds this year, its deep core of sapid fruit framed by powdery tannins and lively acids.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru, a blend of Volnay Taillepieds and Clos des Chênes, has a refined bouquet with crunchy red berry fruit, redcurrant and strawberry pastille. The palate is a little sharp on the entry, but there is good mineralité here. For a Volnay it comes across quite masculine and Pommard-like with a muscular, peppery finish. Just a bit rustic maybe? Still, a very delicious, personality-driven Volnay that will offer a decade of drinking pleasure.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru is much more backward on the nose compared to the Monthelie, but very well defined with vivacious red cherry, bergamot and strawberry. The palate is structured, quite grippy and almost Pommard-like towards the finish. There is a swarthy element to this Volnay, perhaps more reserved than other vintages that I have tasted, but extremely detailed.