The 2011 Pommard 1er Cru Les Clos des Boucherottes shows a little more cohesion than the Les Fremiers, with earthy black fruit that is a little green around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. It is quite simple for a premier cru and needs more flesh and depth on the attenuated finish. These bottles were opened following my tasting through the domaine-s 2012s. I have to be honest, it was one of those awkward situations where I liked the proprietor immensely and appreciated his passion and commitment. But I was looking for a convincing argument that these wines shook off their curmudgeonly youth and turned from caterpillars into butterflies with age. That was not so. Basically, the aromatics built anticipation because they were attractive, yet the palate rarely measured up.

The outstanding 1990 Pommard-Clos des Boucherottes exhibits an opaque, saturated ruby/purple color, and a splendid but unevolved nose of jammy black-cherry fruit intertwined with aromas of cloves, saddle leather, and damp earth. Awesomely concentrated, full-bodied, and intense, with mouthsearing tannins, this large-scaled, forceful wine needs 5-8 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 1997-2010.Given their rustic, full-blown, high tannin style that appears to offer more structure than fruit and charm, I have rarely understood the wines of Coste-Caumartin. However, the 1990s possess the requisite depth of fruit to off-set their tannin. This property's penchant for turning out macho, big, tannic wines that are meant for serious cellaring is clearly displayed with these offerings.Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA.