The 2005 Provignage displays intense aromas of peach, lime, high-toned framboise distillate, and walnut oil. Amazingly dense, staining, and expansive yet blazingly bright on the palate, this features peach, apricot kernel, salts, distilled berry esters and considerable lees character and primary yeastiness. Almost frighteningly gripping and piquant in its ester-rich distilled berry, fruit pit, nut oil, and bitterly-toasty finish, this wine is not for the faint of heart! I suspect, but cannot vouch for its ageability.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

As I've written before, Marionnet's Provignage, produced from pre-phyloxeric, 160-year old Romorantin vines, desperately needs air to express itself. True to form, the 2001 revealed little without considerable air and coaxing, then red berries (primarily raspberries and currants) appeared in its aromatics and the outstanding power, depth and length I've come to expect from this wine surfaced. Red fruits can be found throughout this medium-bodied wine's character. Projected maturity: 2004-2014+.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800