The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or was showing a little more new oak than the other premier crus (around 30% new), but it is nicely integrated with the blackberry and cassis fruit, scents of crushed violets surfacing with aeration in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red cherry and cranberry flavors, fine, edgy tannin and good terroir expression with a dash of white pepper and spice toward the lively finish. One of my favorite Volnays from the domaine, this should age well over the next 12-15 years.

The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or, from the 2.3-hectare monopole, has a sensual bouquet with ripe black cherries intermixed with iodine and crushed violet scents. I appreciate the focus and control here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, layers of blackberry and boysenberry fruit with a dense, assertive finish that will require 4-6 years to soften. There is substance and "thrust" here - what I would like to see is more nuance develop on the finish.

The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or, the 2.13 monopole from vines planted between 1958 and 1991, has a refined bouquet with more mineral scents filtering through the carapace of black and red berry fruit. There is something gentle about these aromatics. The palate is fleshy on the entry. The oak is nicely integrated here, lending this a creaminess to the texture. This is very harmonious with just a touch of salinity furnishing the elegant finish. This is a well crafted Volnay.

The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d’Or has a fragrant and more floral bouquet than the Caillerets at this early stage, nicely defined with blackcurrants and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied, the fruit spectrum here more red with strawberry and raspberry notes, a dash of white pepper and a fine lattice of tannins on the refined finish. This is a lovely Volnay in the making: very pure and sensual.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or clearly had the superior set of aromatics on this peer-group flight - impressive delineation and sense of pinoté here - the oak nicely assimilated with a brightness and vitality that sticks out vis-à-vis others. The palate is fresh and vibrant with fine, supple tannin and well-judged acidity, just a hint of balsamic infusing the red berry fruit, a gentle build to a satisfying finish. This is an excellent Volnay in the context of that challenging growing season.