Eloi Durrbach downgraded his wines so as to avoid AOC regulations forbidding him from making red wines based on equal quantities of the cabernet sauvignon and the syrah. Regardless of the label, this is a Grand Vin that owes a lot to precise extrac-tion and maturation. His white wine is mainly based on the marsanne and the roussanne. The mix of vines is more typi?cal of the northern Rhone Valley and pro?duces a range of aromas not unlike those in the great Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines. What you also get, thanks to 10 percent chardonnay, is a delicate, Burgundy-like touch of butter on the finish. Holding it all together is a terroir steeped in Mediterra?nean scents that add even greater com?plexity.