The 2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of plums, rose petals, spices, grilled meats, orange zest and vine smoke. Medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, it's an unusually sensual, giving rendition of this sometimes austere cru.

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru mingles aromas of sweet red berries and plums with hints of exotic spices, violets, rose petals, musk and orange rind. Full-bodied, velvety and seamless, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and beautifully ripe tannins, concluding with a long, peony-inflected finish.

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is also showing very well, and Mortet speculates that drier, warmer vintages are ameliorating the lower part of this large appellation—where his vines are located. Exhibiting a rich bouquet of plums and wild berries mingled with blood orange, peonies and burning embers, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, with good depth at the core but not the slightest structural asperity.

Aromas of sweet cherries, cassis, rich spices, incense and orange peel introduce the 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy rendition of this bottling, with a deep core of fruit and surprisingly melting tannins. Mortet's evolution in the direction of finesse coupled with the generous vintage has made for a supple, charming Clos de Vougeot that will offer uncharacteristically precocious drinking.

Seventy percent of the production was lost in the 2016 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru that includes around 50% whole bunch and 70% new oak. Perhaps here I can just tell the stem addition more than on the crus from Gevrey, although I like the freshness and the floral scents that develop. The palate is ripe and generous at first, and then it becomes more precise and focused toward the second half and here I can barely tell the stem addition. Silky in texture with great length, this is a very endearing Clos de Vougeot.