Aromas of candied peel, dark berries, spices and forest floor introduce the 2021 Corton Grand Cru Les Grèves, a medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy wine that's framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It's one of the broader-shouldered wines in the range this year.

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru Les Grèves has turned out beautifully, delivering aromas of dark chocolate, rich plummy fruit tones, black truffles and loamy soil. Full-bodied, deep and muscular, it's ample and multidimensional, with fine depth at the core, chalky tannins and a long, penetrating finish. This is a serious, broad-shouldered Corton, built for the cellar.

Aromas of berry fruit, dried flowers, espresso roast, raw cocoa and forest floor introduce the 2017 Corton Grand Cru Grèves, a medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated wine that's quite firm and chalky, displaying an austere chassis of tannin. I suspect it will always be a little structural and muscular.

The 2016 Corton Grand Cru Greves has a very perfumed bouquet with Morello cherries, raspberry preserve and cold stone, very detailed and focused. The palate is very detailed and precise, with very fine tannin and mineral-drenched red berry fruit that is both elegant and intense. Just three-and-a-half barrels of this beauty. Beg, borrow or steal for a bottle (or alternatively try and buy one).