Offering up aromas of cherries, sweet berries, petals, vine smoke and spices, the 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, its fleshy core of fruit underpinned by sweet tannins and tangy acids. This is a superb effort for what is on paper one of the domaine's "entry level" bottlings.

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries and other sweet red fruits mingled with spices, smoke and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, lively and charming, it's an elegant, seamless wine that exemplifies the stylistic evolution of Domaine Dugat-Py over the last handful of years.

Lo?c Dugat-Py opted to bottle the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes earlier than usual to capture its expressive fruit in all its plenitude, and the wine is very charming, unfurling in the glass with a pure and fragrant bouquet of sweet berries, cassis, dried flowers and spicy soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, velvety and open knit, with an ample core of sappy fruit, succulent acids and fine structuring tannins. Generous and giving, it's the most immediate wine in the range this year. Produced from several parcels of vines between 30 and 55 years of age, the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes was matured in only 20% new oak, a figure considerably lower than was the case only a few years ago.

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, which comes from vines between 30 and 50 years old and matured in 30% to 40% new oak with a small amount of whole cluster, has a crisp stony, blackberry and bilberry-scented bouquet, not powerful but precise. The palate is marked by slight chalky tannin, linear and strict, full of energy with a smudge of raspberry preserve hanging around on the aftertaste. Give this Vieilles Vignes three or four years in bottle just to abrade those tannins.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes is a huge wine loaded with super-ripe dark fruit, blackberries, smoke and licorice. The fruit was picked after the rains and the wine is decidely on the ripe side, even within the standards of the house. There is an attractive roundness to the finish, but ultimately the Gevrey lacks the balance of the best years. Dugat used 50% whole clusters here. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Bernard Dugat began picking on September 21. The harvest took place over 6 days and yields came in at less than 25 hectoliters per hectare. Dugat told me that worked out to about 105 barrels for 10.5 hectares of vineyards! The malos proceeded at a very slow pace and the wines weren’t racked until September, except for the Mazoyeres, which had not yet been racked at the time of my November visit. Most of the wines were made with a high percentage of stems, as noted below. Importer: The Sorting Table, LLC, 1700 Second Street Suite 380 Napa, CA 94559 ; tel: 707-603-1466