The Dugat-Py 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes offers considerable depth of ripe black fruits and toasted meat on a palate so fine-grained it is able to sooth and seduce all the way to a succulently long finish. En route, cocoa powder, sage, iodine, and black pepper add interest and invigoration. It could be enjoyed young but will doubtless hold well for 6-8 years, given the track record at this estate. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800