The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes is also very promising, though a touch less demonstrative than the Vide Bourse on this showing. Unfurling to reveal aromas of pear, mint, tangerine, freshly baked bread and iodine, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and textural, with lively acids and a long, mineral finish.

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes is also very promising, mingling aromas of pear and citrus zest with notions of almond paste, freshly baked bread, crushed mint and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and concentrated, it's rich but tightly wound, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, penetrating finish.

There are just over five barrels of the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes, a fine cuvée that offers up aromas of pear, orange oil, fresh bread, iodine and toasted almonds. Medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's chiseled and textural, with lively acids and a long, precise finish.

Opening in the glass with notes of white flowers, pear, beeswax, mandarin orange and iodine, framed by a light touch of youthful reduction, the 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes is medium to full-bodied, layered and tightly wound, with lively acids and good depth at the core. Bottled under Diam, this is quite reserved, even in the inherently giving 2018 vintage, and it will reward a bit of bottle age.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes is also showing very well in bottle, unwinding to reveal aromas of green orchard fruit, mint, wheat toast and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with superb concentration, terrific depth at the core, and racy structuring acids. The finish is long and mineral. This will reward some bottle age.