The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse has turned out especially well, wafting from the glass with notes of peach, pear, white flowers, toasted nuts and struck match, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping palate that's pure, ample and precise, concluding with a saline finish.

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse is brilliant, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange oil, freshly baked bread, citrus blossom, Anjou pear and buttered toast. Medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, it's fleshy but controlled, with lively acids and a long, saline finish.

Still in barrel on the lees, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse opens in the glass with aromas of pear, waxy citrus rind, almond paste, white flowers and fresh bread. Medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with terrific acidity and structuring dry extract, it's long and penetrating. This is very promising.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse has turned out very nicely, unwinding in the glass with aromas of smoke, orange zest, iodine, pear, freshly baked bread and buttered toast. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's lively and gourmand, with fine depth at the core and a nicely defined finish.

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vide Bourse has turned out well, blossoming in the glass with notes of buttered yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb and fresh apricot. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, it's also lively and incisive, with chalky structuring extract. In short, this has picked up additional tension and precision with élevage, and it meets my optimistic expectations in barrel.